I fully thought I wouldn’t be able to stick to this 1-hour-a-day sewing method, but it’s my second week and it’s going well… Save for a few days which had me traveling to New England, I made a big effort to sew just a bit even if I was tired. 9-10 PM is sewing time in this joint!
Anyway, here’s what I have to show for this week. The goal was to make a skirt that would work for work and for the weekend. I think I’ve accomplished it!
Although it looks it, a simple pencil skirt, this was not. This skirt was drafted from scratch (hel-loooo, old patternmaking books!) to fit my shrinking frame. (I would’ve normally taken a shortcut and copied a garment I already own, but my skirts are two sizes too big.)
Pencil skirts are the first thing most people learn to draft, and as such I feel that they’re deceptively simple. But I approached this as if I were drafting a pair of pants and scrutinized the fit when trying the muslin. I did not place any darts in the front, even though most instructions for drafting a pencil skirt advise to do it. Why? I didn’t miss them in mine, I’ll say that. I placed two darts at the back to distribute the 1.5″ dart depth I’d normally need– this created a smoother fit over my, uh, back curves. I also placed the zipper at the center back, and that gave me an extra seam where I could manipulate to fit my curves and remove excess fabric. Any ladies with big bums will tell you, bagginess in the lower back is such a pain!
I am really happy with the fit. The two issues I’ve faced with store-bought skirts are that they ride up and/or twist around the waist, and I wore this for the entire afternoon without experiencing either. This skirt is definitely ready to be worn to work this week.
As far as construction, I thought it might be a good idea to cut the waistband perpendicular to the grain, since my fabric was only a two-way stretch– I found that it kept the waistband from stretching and sagging as the day wears on. Is this a real thing that people do? No idea. But it worked for me.
I also finished all the cut fabric pieces with the serger before putting them together. This saved me a lot of time because I didn’t need to switch between machines as often. Does anybody else do this?
Oh, the fabric is a black cotton twill from Paron Fabrics in NYC. I got it for about $6 per yard and it’s treated me nicely. Nothing crazy to say about boring black twill, though.